Tuesday, June 30 Nafplio

Natalie, Catie, and Collins survey the bastion at Palamides Fortress, Nafplio.

28 June 2009

Oh nooooo-another no wireless day. Oi.  It certainly isn’t the dependable thing we are accustomed to in the US. So, I’m writing, but not blogging. Hope you liked the visual learner approach to blogging from yesterday. After some interesting negotiations with Homeric, we headed for Tolo and our evening cruise on Alkynois to Hydra and the celebration of the first strike in the Greek war of independence from the Turks. We sailed at 5 p.m. via Spetses to Hydra, arriving about 8:30. It is an island of about 1200 inhabitants—most of whom live in Hydra port. There are no vehicles (except garbage trucks) and no water except what is brought in periodically on tankers. In the harbor was a huge mock pirate ship—all black with a Turkish flag. The area around the harbor was set up with tables, a stage, a sound system, and throngs of people. We strolled up the hill in search of David’s silver shop. It had closed, but many other shops had taken its place. Around nine (we are very sophisticated, yes?) we chose a restaurant in an open square half way up the hill and were seated at a long table with a canvas awning overhead and abundant bougainvillea. David C., Mickie, Catie, Ian, Amanda, Carol, Lisa, and Kathryn were in our party; our dishes included stuffed eggplant, meatballs in red sauce, spanakopita, salads with unbelievably red, ripe, delicious tomatoes and cucumbers—umm green cucumbers, of course. Do you have any ripe tomatoes yet in Virginia; we’re not coming home until they are ripe J–and other swell stuff. The band of Greek rebels (I suspect the Turks would call them terrorists) came by as we were eating and received a rousing cheer. They were dressed as pirates—which seems to be a theme for this trip. Around 10, we began to hear the narrative for the celebration and rambled down the hill to the harbor. The celebration was a combination of music (Vangelis, Carl Orff, and new age synthesized bass heavy stuff), proud and sonorous words—eleuteheria e thanatos (Freedom or death!!!!) smoke, percussion, and fantastic fireworks unlike anything I have ever seen at Dogwood Dell. Check the pictures. More than a few of us were moved nearly to tears by the pride and seriousness of the evening. At 11:30 when we boarded the boat for home, we were all certain that the discomfort of the nearly four hour trip home was well compensated. Some of us found a space to sleep on the upper deck of the ship and almost all slept on the bus.

Today was leisurely and swell. After breakfast we bussed down to Nafplio for a look at the Norman/Venetian (and probably Mycenaean) fortress above the town, some brief commentary on the more recent history of Greece and its rocky start with Nafplio as its capital, then a leisurely lunch, some shopping, some gelato and then home to the beach, dinner in Paralio Astros and this failed attempt at blogging. Wendy—we saw Judy today and had our dinner with Apostoles. He has GREY hair and a grandchild! OK. One more whack at this unwired wireless before I call it quits.

Success at Nafplio. Wireless rules. We have concluded our adventures for the day. The 20-somethings are at the beach at Nafplio. For those who have been to Palamides fortress, it is the lovely crescent shaped beach that is visible from the lover’s leap. The other-somethings are shopping and eating ice cream. The indomitable Corona and I are sitting in a harbor side cafe–al fresco, of course–using unsecured wi-fi. I am having an iced green tea!!  Everything has made it to Gereece!!

Let’s see–where did I leave off in my last attempted post. . . hmm, I’ll guess since I only have 25 minutes. Yesterday, we had ourMycenaean day. First Tiryns. In the mere space of two years, a site that was essentially in the middle of a cornfield now has a gift shop and prisitne rest room facilities. Above, much of the lower bastion is being excavated. This fortress–which can be seen from the Palamides fortress– was probably the outpost for Mycenae. Signal fires no doubt could have been set and seen from that distance. This time–no spirit of Eurystheus or Herakles appeared to me in the lower gallery. . . this time. We had words of wisdom from Mickie and Kathryn about the origins and adventures of Perseus, founding king at Tiryns and ancestor of Herakles–who reported back to the ever cautious Eurytheus after each successful “labor.” At the next stop, Nemea, I told the story of the  Nemean lion and we checked the progress restoring the temple of Zeus. Also, this site of the Nemean games has a fascinating “bath” complex for the athletes and a very well preserved stadium. Pictures will follow tonight–assuming successful wi-fi-ness. As always, the big friendly giant won the foot race. We stopped at midday at Mycenae town for lunch–fantastic food!!!! The Davids, Jordan, Natalie, BFG, Katie Brown, Collins, Ginny, Kathryn, and Pam hoofed it up the hill to a great lunch. For Natalie, the highlight was the tzatziki. Katie regaled us with a version of “Hot-cross buns” on the drink bottles and then on to Mycenae. We passes through the Lion Gate without incident, wondered at grave circle A with its treasure trove of golden masks (on the 6 men only ???), weapons, signet rings, and votive objects. What a mighty and wealthy kingdom to have simply vanished in a puff of smoke. From there we hiked up–on the PAVED walk__to the megaron and out to the westernmost lookout. The sacred spring has at least a warning barrier. Some with flashlights and good knees went to the spring while others went only as far as the light of day allowed. On site, Catie introduced the Mycenaeans and their history–as well as the general plan of the site. David Corona did an elaborate debunking of the idea that Clytemnaestra was a heroine. Hummmph!!  In the evening, we did an abbreviated version of Aeschylus’ Agamemnon. What a cast. . . then a group og fifteen bucked up the business at Apostoles’ cafe. Today Epidauros and the shrine of Aesclepios. More pictures and words later. Now–The other David and the bus is waiting !!! Kalimera!!

Because it is late, I am going to dump some photos here. It’s 11:15 and I still have to pack. Yikes.

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Paralio Astros Saturday, June 27

Hi!! Here are pictures and one video from the past days’ adventures at Delphi and Olympia. Today we sail to Hydra for the celebration of Greek independence from the Turks. No doubt we will have some “footage” of the fireworks. For now, check the pictures. I will get some help from the Argonauts on the words to go with them–later.

A lecture in the shade of an Olive tree

Pirates of Paralio

A lecture in the shade of an Olive tree

More attentive, studious types!

Attentive, studious types

on site lecture

Corona’s Apollo pose

BFG and I enjoy the cool Delphi breeze

Ginny reports on the Shrine to Athena Pronaos

Martha contemplates the pythia’s pronouncement

Lisa is the serious photographer here.

Amandas in Goddess mode

Sacred Way

Dining at the new and improved cafe

Catie is pleased

Tholos dedicated to Athena–Atheba Pronaos

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WiFi Heaven!!!!!!

We are in Paralio Astros and finally there is pretty much a heavenly wifi spot–Greek boys bringing lemonade, beachside. I am under a canvas canopy; the troops are in the chaises. I just saw a tray of strawberry looking ice cream floats go their way. Three “guard ducks” waddled past and into the water. Oh boy!! Stay tuned for pictures and more. I will backtrack and fill in the adventure. I think if we are mythical, we must be Argonauts with just a few more Medeas on board than authorized. OK–here’s what I wrote late one night when we were in Athens–

Hello parents and friends of the Greek adventurers,

So, it is a little complicated to post to the blog in our hotel. We have wireless, but only in the lobby . . . and only in thirty minute blocks of time. I think a combination of usb drives and patience and a little work past 9 p.m. should result in an update. If you are reading this, it worked and I was able to stay awake like a big kid. I’m still a little jet lagged and I think almost everyone else is too. We arrived in Athens about 8:30 a.m. on Tuesday morning, met Kostas our trusty(?) Homeric contact in Athens, and bussed into the city. Our hotel, Ionis, is fine but in a block which is mostly small shops—plumbing supply, electronics, banks, and large concrete apartment buildings. A few blocks up, there are pedestrian streets, cafes, and jewelry stores; apparently the renaissance in Athens has not yet reached us. Inside the hotel is fine. There are two tiny elevators; yesterday Mickie Jones was on the elevator with one of the hotel staff.  She remarked that the elevator did not do well with more than one person and a suitcase. Apparently it has been known to just stop when it was expected to elevate more weight than that. We have duly noted its limitations and hope to finish our stay here without any long stretches on the elevator waiting for rescue.

So—about the trip– Tuesday we dropped off our suitcases (which ALL

Carol photographs the Greek Orthodox church in the intersection, Plaka, Athen

arrived with us!! Yay!!) at the hotel and walked out to become oriented. We went up to Syntagma Square to see the changing of the guard at the tomb of the unknown soldier, and had lunch al fresco at Sabba’s (sp?) in the Plaka. After checking in at the hotel around 3 and getting settled for a little bit, the intrepid Dr. Head(he of the newly constituted knees) led the sturdier adventurers up Lycobettos Hill for the panoramic view of the city. I must admit that I weenied out on that extremely vertical excursion. Instead, I went for a stroll, enjoyed a cappuccino, watched Greek people go by from my vantage point at a table on a shady pedestrian street, and appreciated the brisk breeze and lowering sun. At 8, we all had a great dinner in the hotel restaurant—pasta, salad, grilled boneless pork meatie things, and ice cream. Immediately after, most everyone went to their rooms and tried to catch up on sleep.

Mickie and I were the first ones down to breakfast, joined shortly by the two Davids—Head and Corona. Breakfast was great—little fat piggy sausages and sliced ham and something very like bacon, sunny side up eggs, Greek yogurt with peach halves or honey or preserves or any combination of the above—also cereal and milk and toast and two sweet crunchy bread like things. Best part—a vast urn of good coffee. Carol Franklin and I HAD to figure out the Greek coffee deal. There was a little copper urn of very hot water, a tray with coarse sugar and brown powdery stuff, and this other pile of fine sifted sandy stuff. We didn’t know what it was –so of course, we tasted it. Remarkably like the sandy stuff at the beach. So—Carol observed the procedure. We were supposed to put the hot water, sugar and the brown powder—your basic Greek Nescafe—in the copper pots called briki and put the full pot on the sand to heat it up until it was bubbly.  Tomorrow morning we shall accomplish Greek coffee with great sophistication. Stay tuned—it’s dinner time.

The news on Wednesday in Athens. After breakfast, we walked up Athinos street—past the Attalos, Wendy, and the open air market with its fruits(dried and fresh) and nuts and meat and street vendors with sesame covered pretzel goodies—and finally past the only surviving mosque in Athens  and into the Agora.

David waxing professorial before the headless statue of Hadrian (Roman stuff!)

Our magic paper from the Greek Ministry of Culture and my willingness to produce a list of group participants gained us free entry. In the shade of an olive grove, David C. told us the 1400 year history of the Magna Mater Cybele—the big mother goddess. It was scary—and certainly gave all of us a whole new perspective on motherhood. I can’t wait to see the journal entries. Then we went up the hill to the Temple of Hephaestus, were enlightened by Lisa as to the architectural and aesthetic features of that best of all preserved Greek temples—its secret: Christianity. On the grass by the temple were three volleyball sized tortoises. Don’t know their secret.

Why did the tortoise climb the hill?

Here is a shot of the Thesion/Hephaestion–depending upon the myth of preference and Mickie and Catie of the brink of the Agora–

Frieze depicts the Centauromachy--a battle between the Lapiths and the Centaurs.

Mickie and Catie were there

Then down the hill to the Stoa of Attalos to check out the pots in the Agora Museum Collection.  After one bad experience with my flash, we were able to see 300 years of pot evolution in about 200 feet of indoor museum space. With our imaginations firing on geometric, black figure, and red figure pots, we turned up the path to the Acropolis—following the Panathenaic Procession. I learned something (amazing!) from the Corona; apparently the mantle—peplum of Athena was mounted like a sail on a model ship and pushed up the Acropolis all the way to the Propylaia—where it was too big to fit through the passage. The point was to celebrate the naval victory over the Persians at Salamis. This is getting pedantic isn’t it?” We all went to the top of the Areopagus o r Hill of Mars, considered why Paul’s admonitions to Athenians fell on deaf ears and then on up through the Propylaia onto the Acropolis. We had a general intro to the Acropolis from from Ian and then more wisdom about the architecture of the Erechtheion. Lisa told us the story of Athena and Poseidon’s competition over which would be the patron god of Athens. Lesson: olives trump salt water every time.  With grumbling stomachs, we headed down the hill, past the Theater of Dionysus where Tammy introduced the importance of that theater as a prototype for all Greek theaters while David H. obtained tickets to the new and really beautiful Acropolis Museum for the Friday before we return home. One last stop at the choragic monument of Lysicrates and into the Plaka for lunch. The last official stop of the day was the Keramikos—the cemetery of Athens at the edge of town near the Dipylon Gate—to check out the funeral stele—and see if there were puppies on the grounds. Probably it was a good thing that there were no puppies; this is a soft-hearted group. Elliott gets today’s citation for map skills offset by yesterday’s award for seeing Tammy safely off Lycobettos’ hill. Score:even. We were all so tired after our day—does it sound busy to you?—that we all ended up at the same restaurant not four blocks from the hotel.

Great day! Off to Delphi and then Olympia tomorrow.

More pictures and news to follw. Today we go sailing to Hydra–

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At JFK!!

We are all sitting calmly at JFK waiting for our flight to Greece. Departure time is 3:50 so we still have about an hour and a quarter before we board. We have exhausted the shopping possiilities in our little neck of the airport. A few are still out rambling around. I learned my lesson–a salad and a beverage for lunch $25. Opa!!

Jordan says, “Send money. Gypsies everywhere!!” Then he laughted. –I don’t know.

Catie says, “The gypsies haven’t gotten me yet, so don’t expect the Mercedes, Sara.”

Collins says,”Be blessed and stay under God’s umbrella.”

Amanda says,”I’m alive and well and Ian is taking care of me.” I can attest that Ian waited for her to board the RIC-JFK flight so she could get a little snack. Very nice. Nothing like travel to test one’s compatibility.

Lisa and Carol are hanging at the gate. Conversation is slow. We are all a little tired. It may be that we need a conversation starter from John.

OK.  This blogging thing is a swell idea, but I have a book to read. More news in the morning from Athens–assuming wi-fi at the Ionis Hotel!!

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Hello world!

Map of Classical Greece

Hello friends and families of the John Tyler study abroad expedition to Greece.  The plan is to use this blog ( I hope there is at least one student in the group who knows something about creating a blog! I certainly don’t.) to keep you up to date about what we are experiencing and where we are. Right now, we are packing or thinking about packing or shopping before we start packing. We have finished eleven nights of instruction on the history, culture, and mythology of Ancient Greece. Now, we are all very anxious to stop talking and start moving. Maybe the map above will help you to track our movements. Get out your magnifying glasses. We start in Athens, travel northwest to Delphi, then west to Olympia. From there, we travel southeast via Bassae to our home base in the Pelopponese–the tiny village of Paralio Astros (“star beach”) which is too small for any map, but is about 25 miles (1/32 of an inch) southeast of Argos on the Argolic Gulf. From Paralio Astros, we will be taking day trips to Hydra, a crescent shaped island at the mouth of the Argolic Gulf, Nafplio, Mycenae, Tiryns, Nemea, Epidauros, Corinth, and then–reluctantly–we will travel back to Athens via Eleusis. From Athens we will take two short trips to Sounion and Piraeus, both on the coast. Then home on July 6th–but Herculean adventures will transpire before then. I hope you will check back often as we upload photographs, stories, and messages home.

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